By: James G. Apple, Editor-in-Chief, International
Judicial Monitor
There
are two reasons why I wanted to visit Bologna. The first was that it contains the
oldest university in the world (founded 1088) and is the birthplace of Western
legal culture. The second is that I wanted to experience walking among the
city’s many beautiful arcades, or porticoes, so admiringly described in John
Grisham’s novel, The Broker.
On
a recent trip to Europe I was able to fulfill my fond wish. After conducting a
judicial seminar on international human rights law in Strasbourg, France, my
wife and I traveled to Venice and then settled in a nice hotel in the ancient
city of Padua to visit several cities in the Po River Valley of Italy,
including Bologna.
On
the fourth day of our Italian journey, we set out early in the morning from the
old city of Padua, also the site of one of the oldest universities, traveling
on one of the excellent trains that serve this region of north-central Italy.
The train ride from Padua to Bologna was comfortable (clean, upholstered
seats), relatively short (one hour) and inexpensive (less than eight dollars
per person). And, as with all the Italian trains we experienced, it ran on
time.
On
arrival in Bologna we stopped first at the tourist information center adjacent
to the train station. A city map and a helpful tour guide, Tourist Itinerary
for Half a Day in Bologna, suited our needs perfectly. Very soon we were
walking under the first of the many rose-red arcades that we would experience
during the day, this on the main street leading from the train station, the Via
dell Indipendenza, to the main square of the city, which is in almost the exact
center of Bologna. In experiencing the arcades lining the sides of the streets,
it is difficult to improve on one description of them: arcades that “create
fantastic light and shade lacings and spectacular views” of the many ancient
rose-colored buildings that characterize Bologna.
There
are so many arcades in Bologna that it can proclaim world records about them –
more than in any other city in the world. Their length within the city center
totals 38 kilometers (24 miles) and totals 45
kilometers (28 miles) in the entire city. One is longer than any other in the
world – 3 kilometers (1.6 miles). The Portico di San Luca connects the Porta
Saragozza, one of the 12 original gates of the city, with the Sanctuary of the
Madonna di San Luca,. Located on a hill overlooking the city it has 666 vaults
and is four kilometers long. Walking through the arcades is an inspiring
activity that by itself makes a visit to Bologna desirable.
We
arrived after a short walk at the center of the city – a large square with
ancient buildings on three sides, the Pallazo Commune, which is traffic free
due to concrete posts that bar entry of vehicles. Entering the square, on the
right is the Municipal Palace, parts of which date to as early as 1287. To the
left is the Podessa Palace, built in the 13th Century and
reconstructed in the late 15th. Across the square is the Basilica di
San Petronio, an enormous cathedral built in the Romanesque style of
architecture rather than in the high gothic that characterizes so many
cathedrals in other parts of Europe. It is one of the largest churches in
Europe.
After
a visit to the interior of the Basilica, my wife and I skirted the side of the
building to reach our first destination in its rear, the Piazzo Galvani and the
Archiginnasio, built in 1563 near the site where the first university in Europe
was founded in 1088, and law was first taught in the 12th Century.
Famous personages who attended the University are Petrarch,
Erasmus, Pope Nicholas V and Copernicus.
One
of the events that gave rise to the teaching of law in Bologna was the
discovery of a copy of the Corpus Juris Civilis (CJS), the great treatise on
Roman law created at the direction and during the reign of the Roman Emperor
Justinian in 353 C.E. Legend has it that a soldier, rummaging through a refuse dump
in Amalfi in 1130, came upon a brightly colored manuscript that proved to be a
near complete edition of the CJS. It was that event that sparked the revival of
Roman law in Italy and the beginning of the teaching of law at Bologna as early
as 1170.
The
university in the city, or Studium, as it was then known, consisted of a group
of professors teaching students in their homes; there was no single building or
group of buildings which served as a center of learning. The teaching of law
became so important in Bologna that it attracted students not only from other
places in Italy, but also from other locations throughout Europe, including
what is now France, Germany, Poland, Hungary, and England. The Bolognese School